{"id":30535,"date":"2025-11-13T15:24:46","date_gmt":"2025-11-13T14:24:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/i-traghetti-da-parada\/"},"modified":"2025-11-14T15:06:24","modified_gmt":"2025-11-14T14:06:24","slug":"traghetti-da-parada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/fr\/traghetti-da-parada\/","title":{"rendered":"D\u2019une rive \u00e0 l\u2019autre, les traghetti da parada relient la ville"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>\u00c0 Venise, il existe aujourd\u2019hui plus de quatre cents ponts, mais cela n\u2019a pas toujours \u00e9t\u00e9 le cas. Pendant des si\u00e8cles, bien avant l\u2019arriv\u00e9e des vaporetti et longtemps avant la construction des ponts actuels sur le Grand Canal, la seule mani\u00e8re de traverser la ville \u00e9tait de monter \u00e0 bord d\u2019une barque. De ce geste simple est n\u00e9 l\u2019un des services les plus ing\u00e9nieux et po\u00e9tiques de l\u2019histoire v\u00e9nitienne: les <strong>traghetti da parada<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Autrefois, ils \u00e9taient douze, install\u00e9s \u00e0 des points strat\u00e9giques du Grand Canal, et permettaient de passer rapidement d\u2019une rive \u00e0 l\u2019autre sans devoir s\u2019avventurer dans de longs d\u00e9tours \u00e0 travers calli et petits ponts. Ils faisaient partie du quotidien, presque invisibles, int\u00e9gr\u00e9s \u00e0 la chor\u00e9graphie de la ville autant que l\u2019eau qui la soutient. Aujourd\u2019hui, il n\u2019en reste que quelques-uns, mais leur charme demeure intact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Imaginer la Venise d\u2019autrefois, c\u2019est retrouver une forme de mobilit\u00e9 inscrite dans son ADN. \u00c0 une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 les ponts \u00e9taient rares et o\u00f9 le Grand Canal repr\u00e9sentait une fronti\u00e8re naturelle, le traghetto \u00e9tait un geste de pure normalit\u00e9: on descendait sur la rive, on appelait le batelier, on montait \u00e0 bord et, en quelques instants, on se retrouvait de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, pr\u00eat \u00e0 changer de sestiere et \u00e0 poursuivre sa journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00e9habiliter, valoriser ou simplement raconter ces travers\u00e9es, c\u2019est red\u00e9couvrir une autre Venise, faite de passages rapides, de perspectives in\u00e9dites, d\u2019une mani\u00e8re nouvelle d\u2019explorer la ville sans se limiter aux itin\u00e9raires habituels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">O\u00f9 tout a commenc\u00e9<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Ce furent les premiers bateliers v\u00e9nitiens qui, sans vraiment en avoir conscience, donn\u00e8rent naissance au concept moderne de <strong>transport public urbain<\/strong>.<br>Le <em>traghetto<\/em>, ainsi s\u2019appelait l\u2019embarcation destin\u00e9e \u00e0 transporter personnes et marchandises le long d\u2019un parcours d\u00e9termin\u00e9, \u00e9tait r\u00e9gi par un syst\u00e8me \u00e9tonnamment sophistiqu\u00e9. Sa gestion \u00e9tait assur\u00e9e par les <strong>Fraglie<\/strong>, des corporations professionnelles rigoureusement organis\u00e9es, dot\u00e9es de statuts d\u00e9taill\u00e9s, les <strong>Mariegole<\/strong>, qui d\u00e9finissaient r\u00e8gles, tarifs et responsabilit\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les traghetti se divisaient en deux grandes cat\u00e9gories:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2022 les <strong>traghetti de dentro<\/strong>, actifs \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de la ville, r\u00e9partis entre traghetti da <em>parada<\/em> (pour les travers\u00e9es simples) et traghetti da <em>nolo<\/em> (pour des trajets plus longs) ;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2022 les <strong>traghetti de fora<\/strong>, qui reliaient Venise \u00e0 la terre ferme en transportant voyageurs et marchandises.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:10px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 la chute de la R\u00e9publique, en 1797, il existait encore un r\u00e9seau tr\u00e8s dense de points de travers\u00e9e, chacun avec sa propre histoire et son propre groupe de bateliers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">La \u00ab\u00a0<em>barch\u00e9ta<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb , plut\u00f4t qu\u2019une gondole<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Aujourd\u2019hui, ceux qui traversent Venise ont l\u2019impression de voir des gondoles partout, mais le <em>\u00ab\u00a0traghetto da parada\u00a0\u00bb<\/em> n\u2019est pas une gondole.<br>Il ne l\u2019est ni dans le geste, ni dans sa fonction, ni m\u00eame dans sa forme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le traghetto utilise une <strong><em>barch\u00e9ta<\/em><\/strong>, une embarcation plus large, plus stable et plus robuste, issue d\u2019une tout autre tradition: des bateaux de travail, autrefois employ\u00e9s aussi pour le transport des malades, une sorte d\u2019ambulance \u00e0 rames. Lorsque ce service fut confi\u00e9 aux bateaux \u00e0 moteur, quelques barch\u00e9tas rest\u00e8rent en activit\u00e9 et, d\u00e8s 1953, remplac\u00e8rent d\u00e9finitivement les gondoles dans le r\u00f4le de traghetto public.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La <em>barch\u00e9ta<\/em> peut transporter jusqu\u2019\u00e0 <strong>quatorze passagers<\/strong>, contre six pour une gondole traditionnelle, et se man\u0153uvre debout, sans ornement, avec la simplicit\u00e9 de ceux qui vivent l\u2019eau comme une v\u00e9ritable rue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Une gondole comme les V\u00e9nitiens l\u2019utilisent vraiment<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Le <em>traghetto da parada<\/em> est une exp\u00e9rience profond\u00e9ment v\u00e9nitienne.<br>Aucune sc\u00e8ne st\u00e9r\u00e9otyp\u00e9e, aucune s\u00e9r\u00e9nade, aucun prix de carte postale.<br>Il co\u00fbte peu, <strong>2 euros pour les visiteurs, 70 centimes pour les r\u00e9sidents<\/strong>, et reste avant tout un service con\u00e7u pour ceux qui vivent la ville au quotidien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour de nombreux V\u00e9nitiens, le traghetto a \u00e9t\u00e9 le premier v\u00e9ritable contact avec la navigation urbaine: un geste quotidien, presque automatique, bien avant l\u2019id\u00e9e m\u00eame de monter \u00e0 bord d\u2019une gondole \u00ab pour la promenade \u00bb.<br>On traverse le Grand Canal debout, en faisant confiance \u00e0 son \u00e9quilibre, au mouvement du batelier, au rythme de l\u2019eau.<br>Le trajet est tr\u00e8s bref, mais il renferme une familiarit\u00e9 rare: celle d\u2019une Venise que l\u2019on ne contemple pas, mais que l\u2019on <strong>habite<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Les traghetti encore en service<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Aujourd\u2019hui, les <strong>traghetti da parada<\/strong> se trouvent encore \u00e0 des points strat\u00e9giques du Grand Canal: <strong>San Tom\u00e0<\/strong>, <strong>Santa Sofia<\/strong>, <strong>Santa Maria del Giglio<\/strong>, <strong>Riva del Carbon<\/strong> et <strong>Punta della Dogana<\/strong>.<br>Le plus fr\u00e9quent\u00e9 est celui de <strong>San Tom\u00e0<\/strong>, qui r\u00e9duit de moiti\u00e9 le trajet entre San Marco et Piazzale Roma et repr\u00e9sente une v\u00e9ritable bou\u00e9e de sauvetage pour ceux qui souhaitent \u00e9viter le pont du Rialto aux heures les plus charg\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mais un probl\u00e8me devient de plus en plus visible: les files de touristes, souvent tr\u00e8s longues, risquent de d\u00e9naturer une tradition pens\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019origine pour les V\u00e9nitiens. Sensibiliser les visiteurs, leur expliquer qu\u2019il ne s\u2019agit pas d\u2019une attraction touristique mais d\u2019un moyen de transport public, est essentiel pour pr\u00e9server l\u2019\u00e9quilibre d\u00e9licat entre vie locale et accueil des voyageurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:20px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ca\u2019 Marcello: la travers\u00e9e vue depuis la fen\u00eatre<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Parmi les points les plus fascinants de ce va-et-vient quotidien se trouve pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment le traghetto de <strong>San Tom\u00e0<\/strong>.<br>Juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de ce passage historique s\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ve <strong>Ca\u2019 Marcello<\/strong>, le palais o\u00f9 nous g\u00e9rons trois appartements pour The Red House Company.<br>Ses fen\u00eatres s\u2019ouvrent sur le passage incessant de la <em>barch\u00e9ta<\/em>: un mouvement lent, presque rituel, qui rythme la journ\u00e9e comme un battement r\u00e9gulier.<br>Observer le traghetto qui part, revient, se remplit et se vide a quelque chose d\u2019hypnotique, l\u2019une des images les plus authentiques et intimes de Venise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>C\u2019est un privil\u00e8ge rare: non pas la Venise des visiteurs, mais celle des habitants, des \u00e9tudiants et des travailleurs qui traversent chaque jour le Grand Canal avec la simplicit\u00e9 de ceux pour qui l\u2019eau est un v\u00e9ritable trottoir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-1 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center has-text-color has-link-color wp-elements-f414ac853d2064a6334338d26d1b0488\" style=\"color:#c21a26\"><em>Ca&rsquo; Marcello Maestrale<\/em><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/fr\/appartements-a-venise\/ca-marcello-maestrale\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-30273\" srcset=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19-1320x880.jpg 1320w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_maestrale_19.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-1 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button has-custom-width wp-block-button__width-100 has-custom-font-size has-small-font-size\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link has-text-color has-background has-link-color has-text-align-center wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/fr\/appartements-a-venise\/ca-marcello-maestrale\/\" style=\"border-radius:0px;color:#ffffff;background-color:#c21a26\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">R\u00c9SERVEZ VOTRE S\u00c9JOUR<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center has-text-color has-link-color wp-elements-fb7057105eac93e187746bd799804360\" style=\"color:#c21a26\"><em>Ca&rsquo; Marcello Ponente<\/em><\/h6>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/fr\/appartements-a-venise\/ca-marcello-ponente\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-30440\" srcset=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14-1320x880.jpg 1320w, https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/ca_marcello_ponente_14.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-2 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button has-custom-width wp-block-button__width-100 has-custom-font-size has-small-font-size\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link has-text-color has-background has-link-color has-text-align-center wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/veniceredhouse.com\/fr\/appartements-a-venise\/ca-marcello-ponente\/\" style=\"border-radius:0px;color:#ffffff;background-color:#c21a26\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">R\u00c9SERVEZ VOTRE S\u00c9JOUR<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00c0 Venise, il existe aujourd\u2019hui plus de quatre cents ponts, mais cela n\u2019a pas toujours \u00e9t\u00e9 le cas. Pendant des si\u00e8cles, bien avant l\u2019arriv\u00e9e des vaporetti et longtemps avant la construction des ponts actuels sur le Grand Canal, la seule mani\u00e8re de traverser la ville \u00e9tait de monter \u00e0 bord d\u2019une barque. De ce geste [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":30442,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[82,35],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-30535","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-decouvrir-venise","8":"category-our-venice-fr","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>D\u2019une rive \u00e0 l\u2019autre, les traghetti da parada relient la ville - Red House Company<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"D\u00e9couvrez l\u2019histoire des traghetti da parada, l\u2019ancien mode de travers\u00e9e du Grand Canal \u00e0 Venise. 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