The hidden heart of Venice
Venice is a mosaic of districts, each with its own soul and character. Among them, Castello is perhaps the most authentic and captivating, a corner of the city that still preserves the essence of Venetian life. Away from the busiest tourist routes, this neighborhood offers a genuine atmosphere, where quiet alleyways, sun-dried linens, and small artisan workshops paint a scene of everyday tradition.
Castello is the largest of Venice’s six districts, stretching across the city’s eastern side. It borders San Marco and Cannaregio but gradually drifts away from the bustling crowds, embracing a slower, more authentic rhythm. Exploring Castello means discovering the Venice of Venetians, a place where daily life unfolds peacefully in shaded squares, voices echo between open windows, and the aroma of coffee drifts from historic osterias.
Through hidden alleyways and tales of another time
The ideal starting point for a stroll through Castello could be Campo San Lio, one of the district’s most distinctive crossroads, from where you can head towards Campo Santa Maria Formosa, one of the largest and most captivating squares in the area. Continuing north, you’ll come across the majestic Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, one of Venice’s most imposing churches, standing beside the historic Ospedale Civile, which was once the Scuola Grande di San Marco.
But the true heart of Castello lies further east, where the alleyways grow narrower and the city’s pace slows. Walking along Fondamenta Sant’Antonin, you’ll reach Campo Bandiera e Moro, a charming little square where elderly Venetians often gather to exchange stories or share recipes. Here, the Church of San Giovanni in Bragora adds a touch of history and spirituality to the journey.

Continuing onward, you arrive at the imposing Arsenale of Venice, a powerful symbol of the Serenissima’s maritime might. This historic shipyard, still partially operational today, offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s naval history. Not far away, the Ponte del Purgatorio leads to one of Castello’s liveliest areas: Via Garibaldi, the only street in Venice that truly deserves the name ‘via.’ Created by filling in an old canal during the Napoleonic era, this vibrant thoroughfare exudes an authentic atmosphere, lined with historic shops, small cafés, and restaurants where you can enjoy a glass of wine paired with traditional cicchetti.
Green oases and unexpected glimpses
For those seeking a peaceful retreat, a visit to the Giardini della Biennale is well worth the walk. This green oasis overlooking the lagoon is the perfect spot for a relaxing break. From here, crossing the Rio di Sant’Anna, you reach the more residential part of the district, leading to the Island of San Pietro di Castello, a hidden gem where the grand Cathedral of San Pietro offers an unexpected architectural and historical treasure.

The authentic soul
Visiting Castello means immersing yourself in a unique atmosphere, where every detail tells the story of Venice’s true soul. It is the perfect place for those who wish to step away from the beaten path and experience the city through its daily rhythms, among local markets, historic osterias, and unexpected pockets of tranquility.
For those seeking to embrace the authentic Venetian spirit, this is the district The Red House Company recommends for a stay. A morning walk through its quiet alleyways, free from the bustle of the city’s more mainstream areas, unveils a more intimate side of Venice. Stopping for a coffee at a local bar, surrounded by the voices and gestures of true Venetians, offers more than just a visit, it’s a glimpse into everyday life.